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3 Decorative Designs for Concrete Pool Decks

No pool is complete without its deck! It’s the perfect place to lounge by the water on your favorite patio furniture. It also forms a splash zone away from your landscaping and house.

Concrete is the go-to material because it’s durable, readily available, and affordable. But there’s no reason that your deck has to look the same as your driveway or sidewalks. Our friends at Delaney Concrete Contractor describe three ways to transform concrete decking into a pleasing hard surface.

1) Stamped and Stenciled

Want the look of luxury decking materials but without the cost? Stamped and stenciled decks are a cool way to create beautiful patterns. They are completely customizable with color too!

Stamped concrete is made by lightly pressing a mold into the top of the concrete. This leaves a slight imprint that adds depth and texture. The pattern can mimic a range of materials, such as:

  • Brick
  • Cobblestone
  • Natural stone like slate, flagstone, or travertine
  • Wood grains
  • Tiles and pavers

Stencils can also be used to add unique designs. They work just like stenciling a wall with paint. Shapes are traced into the concrete using paper cutouts. This option is especially good at imitating brick and stone tile without having deep grout lines.

“Both stamped and stenciled decks need to be sealed every few years,” says Brad Sevcik, manager for Delaney Concrete Contractor. “This additional step will increase protection against harsh weather and pool water chemicals. It will also help prevent any color from fading in the sun’s UV rays.”

Keep in mind that these looks require skilled labor and additional time to achieve. This might affect your project’s timeline and budget. But the tradeoff is that you’ll have a beautiful design that will last for the life of the concrete.

2) Stained

Do you have a bold sense of style? Skip conventional grey and have fun with color! Stained concrete is a wonderful way to add some personality to your pool deck. Hues can be anything from deep charcoal greys and soothing walnut browns to rusty reds and sunbaked yellows.

“Tint is mixed into the wet concrete. Because of material variations, you’ll achieve a distinct shade that no one else will have,” explains Sevcik.

3) Brushed

Do you want a traditional or minimalist vibe around your pool? Then opt for brushed concrete, which is your classic deck. It has a light texture that is created with an actual broom that is pushed across the top of poured concrete.

This slight impression is a helpful safety feature. It adds grip so slipping isn’t an issue. It’s also low maintenance as no sealing is required. And because brushed is the standard option, so it won’t add any expense to your project.

Want to learn more about pool decks? We have you covered!

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Pool Opening Staples To Have On Hand

Hello summer! We are all about the warmer weather and sunny days. And there’s no better way to celebrate the season than a relaxing dip in the pool. Before you hop in, stock up on these six staples. Read on or watch our Splashy Segment for our favorite picks!

1) Shock

Back when you closed your pool last fall, you should have raised the chlorine levels up to 5 ppm. This step adds extra sanitizing power throughout the off season – you still need to keep bacteria and algae out even if you aren’t using the water!
But over the winter and spring, a lot of that chlorine was spent and needs to be replenished. This is why you need pool shock – to restore chlorine levels to the acceptable range. This is especially necessary if you did a partial drain over the cold months and recently refilled with fresh water.

We recommend Poolife TurboShock. How much you need to add will depend on how high or low your chlorine levels are. What’s nice is that any leftover shock is smart to have on hand. You’ll always be ready to correct your chemistry after a pool party or a significant storm.

2) Test Strips

So small, but so important! Test strips are a simple way to check your water quality. Just dip and wait for a reading.
For more detailed testing, bring in an 8-ounce sample for a free analysis. We will evaluate chlorine, alkalinity, calcium hardness, cyanuric, copper, iron, manganese, TDS (total dissolved solids), phosphates, and salt.

3) Algaecide

Algae has its place in our ecosystem, just not in our pools! This nuisance microbe generally isn’t toxic, but it can turn your water murky and burn through your chemicals (read our post How To Combat Algae In Your Pool). That’s why an algaecide is your friend.

Our trusted brand is Poolife Algae Bomb 30. It tackles three types of algae: green, yellow, and black. Even if your pool doesn’t have an algae problem at the start of the season, one can bloom at any point. Always have this on hand. You can also use it as a preventive treatment.

4) Phosphate Remover

Where there’s algae, there’s usually a phosphate problem. This mineral salt is a major nutrient to algae. It gets into your water from the most innocent sources – sunscreen, makeup, plant debris, and even rainwater. For a deeper dive on phosphates, check out our Splashy Segment or read How Phosphates Affect Pool Water.

Ultima PhosFIGHT Plus is our favorite product. You can use it whether you have phosphates or want to add it proactively on a weekly basis.

5) Clarifier

Has your water lost its sparkle? No matter how hard your filters and chemicals are working, sometimes tiny particles can accumulate in your pool. They’re nearly invisible by themselves but they can make your water cloudy. This is a situation for a clarifier.

Have TurboBlu Clarifier from Poolife in your stockpile. It will bind particles together so they become large enough for your filter to catch. The solution will also improve filter efficiency, in case that was the culprit of your hazy water. This is another treatment that should be used on a weekly basis; dosing is 1 ounce per every 5,000 gallons.

6) Accessories

Ok, now that you have all of your chemical needs, what’s next? Fun! Seriously, owning a pool is all about getting some R&R. That’s why we carry accessories like floaties and towels that will jumpstart your summer vibe.

Need help opening your pool? Schedule with our service department at 319-200-7665. You can also read about our other opening tips:

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Converting A Vinyl Liner Pool To Concrete

If your vinyl pool liner is at the end of its life, is it time to consider converting your vinyl pool to concrete? We’ve heard this question many times. Concrete pools with a shotcrete shell have a longer life, lower maintenance, and more design options.

But keep in mind that converting an existing vinyl pool to a concrete one isn’t a simple swap. You’ll actually have to rip out the vinyl pool and start over with concrete. New ground preparation, plumbing, and decks will be necessary. The good news is that you are ultimately getting a better pool by changing to concrete. Let’s explore the key construction differences between vinyl and concrete pools.

Shell Logistics

The biggest question we get about pool conversions is – why can’t you demo the vinyl liner and just pour concrete into the existing hole?

First, there is a structural difference between vinyl and concrete shells. A vinyl liner is laid over steel walls and a thin floor made from grout or vermiculite. But concrete uses a continuous construction that’s at least 8 inches thick on all sides. If you poured concrete into the same shape left by a vinyl liner, the entire pool’s area and volume would actually shrink.

Additionally, many vinyl liner pools have cross braces under the concrete decks around the outside of the pool. So although it might seem as simple as removing the liner and filling with a concrete shell, those cross braces would also need removed. This in turn would mean about 3’ of concrete decking would come along with it. That is not so simple.

There’s also a concern about the soil condition. Like building a house, you have to test, level, and reinforce the ground before adding any weight to it. Concrete is around 150 pounds per cubic foot – that’s thousands of pounds before you even add water! Because a vinyl liner weighs significantly less, the soil wasn’t originally prepared to accept more mass in the future.

Another consideration with a concrete pool is the bond beam, which runs along the top two feet of your walls. This section is thicker at 12 inches – the extra width prevents your pool’s perimeter from collapsing inward. A vinyl liner doesn’t use a bond beam, so switching to concrete requires excavation to add this reinforcement.

Lastly, removing your vinyl pool is a good time to evaluate your piping. After years of use, it may not be holding adequate pressure or there could be leaks. Your main drain, inlets, and skimmers might need to be replaced as well. Plus the original system may not be compatible with your new concrete pool design.

Concrete Lasts Longer

Yes, it’s an extended process and cost converting a vinyl pool to concrete. But it’s an investment that many homeowners are making. They can see that a concrete pool offers long-lasting beauty and function that vinyl can’t match.

While vinyl liners can last anywhere from 7-12 years, they are meant to be replaced. Eventually they wear out, sagging away from the pool wall or detaching from the clip track. They can also become stained, cracked, or wrinkled. Each replacement can range anywhere from $4,000 – $12,000, which adds up if you want your pool to last for 20 years.

Concrete, however, is durable like your basement foundation. If done right the first time, you shouldn’t have any problems with deterioration. Only the interior tile and plaster will need upkeep as they’re exposed to the elements and treated water. Your pool should be resurfaced every 15-20 years. This not only protects the concrete shell underneath, but gives you the opportunity to change your look if desired.

Still thinking about what you want in a new pool? Check out these helpful posts:

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The Benefits of Saltwater Pools

Did you know you can have a saltwater pool? Contrary to popular belief, these pools aren’t filled with ocean water. Instead, they use a saltwater generator to create chlorine right in your own backyard. All you need is salt and electricity! No more having to buy liquid, granular, or tablets of chlorine. Learn why making the switch to a salt chlorine generator might be the right option for your pool.

How Does It Work?

A salt chlorine system harnesses the power of electricity. Water and salt (sodium chloride) are pumped through a manifold, sometimes called a salt cell. This device contains metal blades that are charged with an electrical current. This process is called electrolysis, and it causes the sodium chloride to split into separate molecules. The chloride is now free to clean your water, where it will attach to and neutralize containments.

What’s The Advantage?

Both traditional chlorine pools and pools using a salt chlorine generator rely on the same type of sanitizer – chlorine. No pool is ever free of chemicals. What changes with a salt chlorine generator is how the chlorine gets into your pool. The system produces its own chlorine from food-grade salt and circulates it through your water. This means you won’t need to:

  • Order an entire season of chlorine
  • Deal with supply shortages, price increases, or shipping delays
  • Transport, store, or handle chlorine, which is a corrosive material

Another benefit is that salt has an infinite shelf life – it doesn’t expire or go bad. It doesn’t even evaporate out of your pool. Chlorine only lasts 2-5 years before it’s no longer effective. That means that even if you have a place to stockpile chlorine supplies, the chemicals won’t work after a few seasons.

With a salt generator, there’s also no need to order a special type of salt. All you use is common sodium chloride, which is typically available in bulk as 40-pound bags. You’ll find these at big-box retailers rather than the grocery store. Bags can be stored in the same way as sidewalk salt, usually stacked in a garage or shed.

Is My Water Chemistry Different?

Nothing significant will change with a salt chlorine generator. Your chlorine levels need to remain the same – the ideal is 3,200 ppm (parts per million). You also need to follow the same weekly testing schedule to monitor water quality. Most systems have a simple indicator light when your water’s salinity (which is the concentration of salt) is low. There are also saltwater test stripes.

When using a saltwater generator, keep an eye on your pH. Salt might cause your acidity to rise above the recommended range of 7.4-7.8. When that happens, your chlorine effectiveness is reduced and calcium issues such as scaling or cloudiness can occur. Have a pH balancer on hand in case you need to adjust.

Does My Maintenance Change?

A saltwater generator is fairly low maintenance. You will need to periodically clean off the salt cell as the blades can accumulate buildup. The metal parts are usually coated with a conductive material, so this is not a job that requires hard scrubbing. Soak in muriatic acid instead.

Also be aware that a saltwater system has several electrical components. There’s the salt cell plus a control board. Like any technology with circuits, these parts can fail over time or short out after a surge. The good news is that they can be replaced individually, ensuring the entire system runs for years on end.

You can absolutely convert an existing pool to a salt chlorine generator! We can add these systems to a new pool as well as older ones. Call today to learn more: (319) 200-7665.

Not looking to upgrade to a salt chlorine generator? Learn how to make the most of your pool chlorine (3 ways to maximize your chlorine).

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