/ by /   Pool Maintenance / 0 comments

How to Backwash Your Pool Filter

Have you thanked your pool filter lately? This equipment works hard every day to keep your pool water crystal clear and safe to enjoy. Getting dirty is its job! But all that captured debris and dirt has to be removed periodically. That’s why you should regularly backwash your pool filter. Backwashing ejects dirt, debris, hair, and oils that your filter caught. We’ve broken down this simple and quick maintenance task into three easy steps.

Step One – Know The Right Time

Everyone’s backwashing schedule varies. For example, how much you use your pool or how much debris you experience makes a difference. A few signs it’s time for you to backwash your pool filter:

  • There’s weak flow coming out of your returns. You can actually feel this just by placing your hand in front.
  • Your pressure gauge is 10 psi (pounds per square inch) over your normal threshold.
  • Cloudy water may indicate that the filter is overloaded with gunk. However, make sure to do water testing first to confirm you don’t have a chemical imbalance or algae problem. (We help with this for FREE)!
  • After a heavy rain or strong winds that blew around debris, your filter has to work overtime. Make sure to backwash as well as skim, vacuum, and shock for a thorough clean.
Step Two – Kill Power, Change to Backwash, and Manually Clean

The first step in a backwash is safety! Because this is an electrical system, you want to turn it off at the breaker to ensure no power is flowing. If you left the pump running while changing the flow direction, you could damage the parts to the point where they have to be replaced. It’s like throwing your car from D to R while it’s in motion. Eeks!

Next, clean any baskets. Remove waste like leaves and grass. You might also give them a scrub or strong spray with a hose if they look grimy. Make sure to reinsert in the correct position.

Then check that your waste line is attached and directed to an appropriate spot. You may want to discharge backwash to an area away from your pool, especially if your pump is near your house foundation or surrounded by concrete.

Now turn the handle from filter to backwash. Thanks to this variable flow valve, all you are doing is changing the direction of the water. The pressure of this reverse flow is what cleans the filter during the backwash.

Step Three – Backwash and Rinse

Time to start the backwash! Flip the breaker back on and the backwash will automatically begin. All you have to do is wait approximately a minute. You can visually look at the discharge water to see when it’s flowing clean. Some models also have a sight glass – a small, clear container that allows you to see the water and judge when it’s clear.

Kill the power again, switch your valve to rinse mode, and turn the power on. Let the rinse cycle go for around 20 seconds. This step is to ensure that anything left over from the backwash doesn’t drift back into your pool. Lastly, cut power, switch back to filter mode, and turn it on again. If you have a sand filter, you are all set!

If you have a DE (diatomaceous earth) filter, your last step is to add more DE to your skimmer. This is because the backwash removes a portion of the DE. The size of your filter dictates the number of scoops. Just allow each one to dissolve in between or mix with equal parts water in a separate container and then add.

Our only warning is to never backwash when you have an algae problem. Because algae is microscopic, it can bypass the filter and recirculate in your system. Read our post on dealing with an algae bloom and always use vacuum-to-waste in this situation.

Love watching videos on pool tips? We’ve got you covered with Splashy Segments! Our staff is already ready to share the best insider knowledge about pools and spas.

/ by /   Pool Maintenance, Water Quality / 0 comments

A Guide to Non-Stabilized vs. Stabilized Chlorine

Did you know there is more than one type of chlorine for your pool? There are actually two ways to add sanitizer to your water: stabilized chlorine or non-stabilized chlorine. It’s always smart to know how to use different chemical products to protect your water quality. This post will teach you how to create a version of stabilized chlorine by combining non-stabilized chlorine with a stabilizer. You can also watch our Splashy Segment Stabilized Chlorine vs. Non-Stabilized Chlorine.

 

Non-stabilized Chlorine vs. Stabilized Chlorine

Non-stabilized Chlorine

Stabilized Chlorine

Contains only chlorine Contains chlorine + cyanuric acid
Tablet form Tablet form
Add to skimmer or floater Add to chlorinator/chemical feeder, skimmer, or floater
Control how much stabilizer is added Provides a two-in-one formula

 

Stabilized chlorine

Most pool owners are familiar with stabilized chlorine. It’s a tablet product that you simply add to your chlorinator or chemical feeder. The stabilized part is thanks to cyanuric acid.

Cyanuric acid acts like a sunscreen for chlorine. By protecting chlorine molecules from burning off in the sun, cyanuric acid stabilizes chlorine so it can work longer in your pool. This means you have more free chlorine available to tackle any germs and algae (read our post on free vs total chlorine).

The downside to stabilized chlorine is that every tab adds more stabilizer to your water. Yes, too much cyanuric acid isn’t a good thing! Too high and it can create chemical instability like a pH bounce, when your alkalinity gets too low and your pH is erratic. Excess stabilizer is really common for our customers by the middle or end of summer.

Non-stabilized chlorine

Differing from stabilized chlorine, non-stabilized chlorine does not contain cyanuric acid, only chlorine. But because all pools need some stabilizer, you can always use non-stabilized chlorine with an additional stabilizer. Why would you have two products rather than one? Control and flexibility!

It’s like when you are baking. It’s great to have a boxed cake mix with everything you need. And then sometimes you want to make a cake from scratch, measuring all the separate ingredients yourself. Ultimately, it’s good that you know how to use both!

It’s the same reason why we encourage pool owners to use non-stabilized chlorine with a stabilizer. Having multiple ways to create safe, clean water is a plus for everyone. In fact, we have many customers who start the season using stabilized chlorine but then switch to non-stabilized chlorine + sanitizer so they can more easily control cyanuric acid levels.

Want to start using non-stabilized chlorine but unsure how much stabilizer your water has currently? Just bring in a water sample and we’ll test it for free! We can pinpoint exactly how much stabilizer you have left and how much you might need to add.

Need to restock on your pool chlorine supplies? Swing by the store or call to make your order: 319-200-7665.

/ by /   Pool Ownership, Water Quality / 0 comments

How Phosphates Affect Pool Water

Safe pool water begins with good chemistry. That’s why we want to introduce you to phosphates – a type of mineral salt that affects your pool water quality. Because it’s a food source for algae, it can create a number of problems in your pool. See why you should pay attention to phosphate levels in your water. You can also watch our Splashy Segment Understanding Phosphates.

The Power of Phosphates

Just like many chemical compounds, phosphates can be either helpful or harmful. Inside our bodies, they combine with calcium to help strength our bones and teeth. We eat certain foods that contain phosphorous, which converts into phosphate when it combines with oxygen. You can even find phosphoric acid in soft drinks like Coca-Cola and Pepsi!

Phosphates also naturally occur in plant matter, which is why they so easily find their way into your pool. They can even be found in rainwater. If you live in a rural area, they’re often used as a farm fertilizer.

But there’s a problem when phosphates hang out in your pool. Phosphates are considered a limiting nutrient because they cause eutrophication. Eutrop-i-what? It’s when water becomes clogged with minerals and plants that choke out animal life. A pond full of algae with no fish is a classic example.

This same issue can occur in your pool too. Thankfully phosphates aren’t dangerous to humans, but algae absolutely loves to eat them. And when algae has an abundant food source, it will bloom quickly.

Algae + Phosphates = Trouble

What happens when algae goes crazy? It burns through your chlorine, for starters. The less chlorine you have, the less protection your water has. This is a special concern for salt pool owners because phosphates cling to salt cells. When that happens, it essentially shuts down your chlorine generator.

Algae will also gunk up your filters, cling to pool surfaces, create murky water, and slow down your pump circulation. Plus this little plant is home to microorganisms that can be toxic to humans and pets – it’s not anything you accidentally want to swallow.

The tricky part with phosphates is that you can’t prevent them from landing in your water. Even if you consistently cover your pool, phosphates have an unsuspecting accomplice – humans. You can thank your sunscreen and makeup for introducing phosphates into your pool water. Even the water you use to fill your pool might have phosphates in it as many cities use this element to protect pipes from corrosion.

The good news is that staying on top of phosphates is similar to algae protection. A strong combination of manual cleaning, testing, and a phosphate remover will go a long way.

  • Clean clean clean – Stay on top of scrubbing, skimming, and vacuuming. Routinely spray off your filters as well.
  • Use your pool cover – This will help deflect phosphate sources from rainwater and plant debris. Pay attention to weather forecasts as well. Better yet, get into the habit of covering your pool whenever it’s not in use. Don’t have one yet? Read our post on all the reasons why a pool cover is essential.
  • Add a phosphate remover – These formulas are based on the gallonage of your pool. We carry multiple brands for both traditional chlorine and salt systems.

Keep in mind that regular test strips don’t react to phosphates. We carry phosphate-specific strips, though they aren’t a quick-dip type. Your best peace of mind is to drop off a water sample and we’ll test it for free.

If you need a water quality refresher, read our posts on algae, maximizing chlorine, and balancing after a pool party.

/ by /   Pool Maintenance, Pool Ownership, Water Quality / 0 comments

Maximize Your Chlorine with Ozone and UV

Ozone and UV, isn’t that stuff in our stratosphere? Yes, but these invisible forces can also be harnessed to clean your pool water! An ozone or UV system is a great way to supplement your chlorine needs, extending the life of your chemicals. It’s extremely effective at destroying unwanted particles and is easy to use. Learn how this amazing technology will protect your pool and maximize your chlorine! 

Water quality is the hidden foundation of a great pool. There’s nothing like slipping into sparkling water and knowing its free of germs and pathogens. Chlorine and bromine do a marvelous job at neutralizing microorganisms and sanitizing your water, but they aren’t the only option. An ozone or UV system is a great way to boost your sanitizing power to the next level! It’s like using applesauce to substitute part of the oil in a cake – same result, different ingredients. Many homeowners appreciate reducing their chemical usage without sacrificing safety.  

Every manufacturer has their own unique system. It’s actually a range of technologies rather than a uniform design. But each one has the same purpose – to reduce the amount of chemicals needed to sanitize water and to help eliminate E. coli, giardia and cryptosporidium. Ozone is fantastic at sanitizing water and so is UV but combine these two technologies and nasty organisms living in the water don’t stand a chance!

Here’s a few of our favorites:

  • Pentair has a UV system that can cut chlorine usage in half. As water flows past the lamp, it destroys bacteria and parasites living in the water. All of these microorganisms cause illness if ingested, so it’s important to eliminate them. 
  • DEL Ozone combines ozone and UV for a one-two punch. It uses an advanced oxidation process (AOP). Ready for a chemistry lesson? Oxygen molecules (02) are split into atomic oxygen (O1), which then bonds together as ozone (O3). When ozone comes into contact with containments, it breaks apart so the individual atoms can destroy foreign bodies. Pretty cool! 
  • Clear Comfort is also based on the same AOP process but without UV. It has two stages of cleaning, with a hydrogen peroxide residual that continues cleaning the water. 

What is even better about these systems? You can retrofit them. You don’t have to build a new pool or do a major renovation to add one. It’s a smart upgrade that will reduce your chemical costs while increasing peace of mind. 

Ready to explore options for an ozone or UV system for your pool? Contact us and we’ll help get you on your way.

1 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 27